If it does take a punch or screwdriver and push in on the plunger in the axle, you may need to rotate on of the front wheels slightly, does it slide into position? I have an 88 chevy K-1500 4x4 5. Please help we have a big storm on the way Thank you all so much Steve Pull the Accuator out tape 2 lug nuts to the end of the plunger and screw it back in. Sometimes I can keep it idleing, put it in rev. When mine suddenly stopped working, it was the same symptoms as yours. Is it possible that it has grown too weak to do its job, but still strong enough to pop out in the absence of resistance? I know its a bit old, but this trouble shooting may help me with my 2010. The chec engien light is.
Im tired of troubleshooting it I may just take it to the dealership also. Dist cap and rotor good and dist shaft side play good? To me, it sounds like an actuator problem. My push button is not blinking- its on. My plan was to put the nicer bed on it eventually and have cab corners and rocker panels fixed and have the whole truck painted. Give all info and someone will help you.
The 4wd light on the shifter comes on as a result of the collar in the axle sliding over from the actuator engaging. When I gave it 12vdc from the battery it worked fine. Third the wiring harness inside the transmission is different for 199 … 3 and 1997. Any ideas as to what the problem may be? To set timing disconnect the est bypass wire. I dont care if its probably the dumbest suggestion you have ever thought of, ie change the blinker fluid.
Then the bushing in the trans. Check the level of trans oil and add to the middle of the hash marks on the dip stick. Don't forget to polish the yoke on the drive shaft were it slides into the trans. If not you probably installed something incorrectly while the axle was removed. Wipe out the pan with a rag, there should be a square type magnet in the pan. In this video I go over some of the common problems you will find in the 1988 to 1998 fourth-generation Chevrolet pick up truck I hope this video helps you to keep your old Chevy truck running for a good long time. There is a trust washer that will fall down if the tube is not removed.
My truck lacks serious power, it idles rough, sometimes wont idle at all, sometimes Truck Idles fine. Second the solenoids inside the transmission are different for 1997 and 1993. I had purchased a new actuator and still had no 4wd. The joints you can sometimes seen are little cracks around them. I Just took my timing light shined it on the fuel spray and it appeared to be ok till i pushed on the excellerator. Ide pull the switch, remove the backing until you get to the board where the pins poke through! Problem is that i have no idea where to locate it. And am still having no luck.
If the problem was related to other areas, you wouldn't be able to get it in 4lo. If the problem is not with the actuator, the wiring, or the internal gearing of the differential, what else might it be? I am going to assume that you have an Automatic Trans. Engine is not original but unknown mileage. Is it an easy fix for a novice? How hard is it to fix or rebuild it myself? The passenger side axle was not attached according to the mechanic yes, after I had to physically show him as he didn't find any issues. I have replaced the: tps, map, egr, pcv, distributor, cap, ignition coil, rotor, plugs, wires, timing chain, both sprockets cam and crank, checked all hoses for leaks, replaced the injectors, the O2 sensor and have changed the intake gaskets. That type of trans is all electric where the 4L60 is some electric but ha … s a detent cable on the right side the runs up to the throttle body. The actuator may have been damaged when the axle broke?? It wasnt until i removed it and repaired it that it never went out again.
Sometimes under glove box or heater housing in cab. While I'm driving I would get a Service 4x4 on my dash and all of my lights on my autotrac switch would be out and I would hit 2wd and it wouldnt light up. I think my friends dad has a fuel pressure guage I will barrow it from him and check the pressure. There is a bolt and washers that hold the Axle in and that had broken. A single tan wire with a black stripe.
Clear codes and see if they come back. The fine metal that is on it is normal, its the little bit bigger pieces that I would be concerned with. And clear code set after setting time. I checked the fuse and its good. You're best bet is to get it to a shop for diagnosis. I also checked the wiring of the circuit leading to the actuator, and it all appeared fine. ?? What is engine vacuum reading at idle and at 2K rpm? You will be locked in.
Dist cap and rotor good and dist shaft side play good? I assume this means the problem is somewhere in the front differential or axles or hubs, since the transfer case is evidently doing its job. Unscreww the actuater out of the front axle, put it in 4wd, with the key in the run position, does the actuater get longer? Any advice would surely be appreciated. I did this to my 92 1500 many years ago and just last night I did it to my friend 94 1500. On the electronically controlled systems, there is a main control module that could be bad as well. Just a thought for you to consider. If your good you can drive the new seal in with a hammer.