There is a silver cap on the right side of the engine compartment. I can't seem to get them to run. I am extremely thankful and to anybody whose comments I have not replied are just because I have not gotten around to testing whatever you have told me yet. The top one was really hot and the bottom hose was a little bit hot so I guess it is going through the radiator so maybe just driving around in 20 degree weather might be enough to keep the radiator cold, idk. I am planning to change the coolant reservoir, water pump, and thermostat 1 at a time to see what will help First Thermostat second Water pump Third coolant reservoir and top rad hose I will take the car to another Mechanic to hear what he has to say. We've earned our reputation for excellence from over three decades of experience in providing automotive replacement parts, fasteners and service line products primarily for the automotive aftermarket. I tried to get a picture of it but they all suck.
Please give me your source that indicates this is a known problem with the Chrysler 2. Tried setting it to cold. If there is there will probably be a frothy gunk on it. The hose clamp on the rear connection is very hard to get to. At Dorman, we take pride in the quality of our products and in your satisfaction. Remove cap start engine and observe coolant flowing at or near cap.
It doesn't sound as extreme as yours though since my cooling fan still kicks on when the engine is warm, even in cold weather. Thank you and any help will do Mike Based on what you say and have done, I would say there is a strong indication you have a head gasket problem. Hopefully I didn't drive it enough to do any damage. Like others have said, the fan needs to be fixed first. I could have sworn these fans were on 2 days ago but maybe I just imagined it. Both were a pain in the butt to replace.
Once the temperature actually started changing it was exponential from there. It Depends on your experience how fast you get the job done. It was a perfect fit and seems to be working just fine. I changed oil and filter every 5,000 miles using Havoline conventional 5w30. Anyway I found that there is a hole the size of a nickel in the side of the bleeder housing. The temperature sensor threw an error code, and my engine had no previous code.
The sensor shows a lower temperature on my gauge than both the original Mopar unit and a replacement from the local parts store. Replacing the bleeder housing and filling back up with coolant did the trick. Operating an overheated engine will cause the engine to fail. Have you continued to drive it like this? Best thing to do would be to fill the cooling system and make sure there are no air bubbles in it and then start testing all over again, totally ignoring what it's done to this point. These engines have coolant in areas higher up in the engine where air can be trapped during refill. It immediately sets off the check engine light.
We have worked hard to design a site that caters to everyones Chrysler Sebring Coolant Air Bleeder Kit needs. I remember one of them felt very solid the entire time don't know what that hose does though. If the fluid level changes more than 0. Bad head gasket with the coolant leaking internally, either into the oil or into the cylinders would be bad. This was one reliable, extremely smooth, quite engine. Where is your needle mark reading? Change your thermostat while you've got the system open. As for the thermostat I may save that for later as it's quite the hassle to change on this car.
Remove thermostat to installl Reverse the procedure and at the end open the bleeder valve and pour in coolant slowly in to the reservoir Start Engine add coolant and bleed the air out. It is such a poorly made product. However the one very important issue was that it came with a well used and stripped air release nipple. I drove home and it started overheating probably halfway through the 15 minute drive but I kept going and made it home. Today I will again keep an eye on fluid levels. The issue that arose with mine was it caused my engine to run rich because the computer thought my engine was cold, I did the sensor swap and it helped, it also caused the cooling fan not to kick on when the engine did get hot. In the last 2 minutes I had the car idling it went from 60F to 170F and I shut it off before it went any higher than that.
Took it on a 30 minute drive and the temp stayed between 190F-200F the entire time which I feel like is probably around what it used to be. Start engine and allow to run until thermostat opens and radiator fans cycle. Removing the pressure cap breaks the vacuum path between the two chambers of the pressure container and the coolant will not return to the cooling system. Remove Thermostat housing bolts 12. Close bleed valve and continue filling system to top of Filling Aid Funnel.
Unless you have a lot of mechanical experience, and a lot of patience, you may want to pay someone to do this for you. I noticed the radiator was still cold and the fans were not running. It looks like you've got some steam coming from the engine side as well as from the bottle in the video. If there is a bleeder valve, it is probably on the thermostat housing. Do this very slowly andd carefully. Feb 28, 2016 When you changed these components and refilled the cooling system, did you purge the air out of the top of the system by opening the bleeder valve. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.